Zooty Owl's Crafty Blog

COLOURFUL CROCHET AND CRAFT

Friday, 19 September 2014

Happy Days CAL (6): BOX STITCH SQUARES

Welcome to Part 6 of our Happy Days Blanket Crochet Along! 

For those needing to do a bit of catching up or would still like to join in, here are the links so far:

PART 1 (Hakuna Matata Mandala Square) (where you will find all the necessary info about this project);
 
Part 2 (Sunny Flower Square);

Part 3 (Tic-Tac-Toe Square);


Part 4 (Solid Granny Square); and

Part 5 (Popcorn Flower & Leaves Square)

So far we have made:
4 x Hakuna Matata Squares (28cm x 28cm each)
10 x  Sunny Flower Squares (14cm x 14cm each)
4 x  Tic-Tac-Toe Squares (28cm x 28cm each)

10 x Solid Granny Squares (14cm x 14cm each)
8 x Popcorn Flower & Leaves Squares (14cm x 14cm each) 

We have joined the Sunny Flower Squares and the Solid Granny Squares to make 5 bigger 28cm x 28cm Squares

We are all using exactly the same patterns but each and every blanket is so special and unique!!!

crochet blanket

crochet blanket
 
crochet blanket

 crochet blanket

crochet blanket

 crochet blanket

crochet blanket
 
This weeks square is a Box Stitch Square  (if you need a bit of help with the "Box Stitch" you can find the photo tutorial HERE)


We will be making 8 of these squares:


BOX STITCH SQUARE

YARN:  DK (8ply / light worsted weight) 100% acrylic 

 
HOOK:  5.00mm


SIZE:  14cm x 14cm

PATTERN TERMS:   US

I will include this conversion chart with each pattern to make it easier for those using UK terms


crochet terms conversion chart

Foundation:   4ch, sl st to join OR make a magic ring;


Row 1:   3ch (counts as 1dc), 2dc into ring, 2ch;  (3dc into ring, 2ch) x3;  sl st to close, break off yarn.

Row 2:   Join new colour, in any 2ch space;   4ch (counts as 1sc, 4ch) 1sc in same space as join;   (3ch;   1sc, 3ch, 1sc in next 2ch space) x3;   3ch sl st into 1st of 4ch at start to join, break off yarn.

ROW 3:   Join new colour, working 3dc (3dc cluster) into each 3ch space;   and 3dc, 3ch, 3dc into each corner 3ch;   sl st to join, break off yarn.

Row 4:   Join new colour, in any corner 3ch space;   4ch (counts as 1sc, 4ch) 1sc in same space as join;   *(3ch, 1sc into space between 3dc clusters) x2;  3ch;  (1sc, 3ch, 1sc into corner 3ch space)* repeat *to* 3 times;  (3ch, 1sc into space between 3dc clusters)x2;  3ch, sl st into first of 4ch at start to join, break off yarn.

Row 5:  Join new colour, working 3dc (3dc cluster) into each 3ch space;   and 3dc, 3ch, 3dc into each corner 3ch;   sl st to join, break off yarn.

Row 6:  Join new colour, in any corner 3ch space;   4ch (counts as 1sc, 4ch) 1sc in same space as join;   *(3ch, 1sc into space between 3dc clusters) x4;  3ch;  (1sc, 3ch, 1sc into corner 3ch space)* repeat *to* 3 times;  (3ch, 1sc into space between 3dc clusters)x4;  3ch, sl st into first of 4ch at start to join, break off yarn.

Row 7:  Join new colour, working 3dc (3dc cluster) into each 3ch space;   and 3dc, 3ch, 3dc into each corner 3ch;   sl st to join.

Row 8:   1ch (counts as 1sc);   1sc into each dc;   3sc into each corner 3ch;   sl st into 1ch at start to join.     Break off yarn. 

Join the Box Stitch Squares to the Popcorn Flower & Leaves Squares using the VISIBLE JOIN METHOD (or use your preferred joining method) to make bigger squares (28cm x 28cm = 2 Box Stitch Squares and 2 Popcorn Flower & Leaves Squares).


The pattern for the next square will be posted on Friday, 3 October 2014.

Please post the photos of your progress on my Zooty Owl Facebook page so that I can share them with my next post!


Happy crocheting!!

(Part 7:   The Zooty Mandala Square)

Tuesday, 9 September 2014

Cosmos Fields Shawl: Pattern

The Cosmos Fields Shawl pattern has been written with my "novice" readers in mind - (with more detailed explanations on how to get from row to row etc).

This is a fun project for any skill level though - super to take along on holiday (I just did) or for in front of the telly!  

(A print-friendly version of this pattern can be found HERE)


triangle shawl

The pattern is designed to be worked in a 100% acrylic "economy" DK (8ply / light worsted weight) yarn, but it works up quite wonderfully in a more luxurious yarn! 



The stitch composition is very uncomplicated - making the pattern suitable for both variegated and solid colour yarns!

Various yarn blends also work well with this pattern – Courtelle, 100% wool, acrylic/wool blends and  cottons.

Thinner yarns may be used – just keep repeating the pattern row (Row 3) until you reach the required size.     Always make sure you end on an odd number of rows before starting your edging!

Thicker yarns may also be used, such as chunky (12 - 14ply) or super chunky (14 - 16ply).

Notes:

Right Side / Wrong Side:     

We will talk about every odd row as the right side (eg, rows 1, 3, 5, 7, 9 etc are the right side);    

and every even row as the wrong side (eg, rows 2, 4, 6, 8, 10 etc)

Side Increases are made at the beginning AND end of every row.   

The increase of 2dc at the beginning of a row is made into the 1ch space at the end of the previous row.    

The increase of 2dc at the end of the row is made into the 4ch loop which is formed at the start of the previous row (you will note that at the beginning of a row I say that the 4ch counts as 1dc, 1ch, so this  is not "seen" as a 4ch loop when working the next row but as a 1ch space and then 1dc at the very end of the row - when writing the pattern I will NOT say to crochet into the 4ch loop at the end of the row - I DO say to crochet into the 1ch space at the end of the row   

The Point (or corner) is formed in your very first row (2dc, 3ch, 2dc).     

Throughout the shawl you will work 2dc, 3ch, 2dc into the 3ch space from the previous row.     (Effectively increasing your stitch count over the point or corner with 2dc on every row)

If your increases are correct you WILL have a perfect triangle.    

If the triangle pulls outward - you are increasing too much.   

If the triangle pulls inward (like a kite) you are increasing too little.

An easy "check" is to count your stitches - each row should increase with a multiple of six:   Row 1 = 6;   Row 2 = 12;   Row 3 = 18;   Row 4 = 24;   Row 5 = 30 and so on.    Once you have the first few rows correct you probably won't need to count any more.

Triangle:    The shawl is worked seamlessly (in one piece) from the top to the bottom - your first row being the top of the shawl which will lie behind your neck and the last row being the bottom which will hang down over your back.

Stitches:   We are using five basic stitches only for the shawl - chain (ch);  single crochet (sc); half double crochet (hdc) and double crochet (dc) (US terms); 

and then also a slip stitch (sl st) on the edging;     

UK CROCHETERS will be using a double crochet (dc) (single crochet in US) half treble (htr) (half double crochet in US) and a treble (tr) (double crochet in US).

COSMOS FIELDS SHAWL:    PATTERN

Yarn:    Lollipop DK (100% Acrylic)

Colours:  Avo Green;   Khaki;   Saxe Blue;   Violet;   Plum  (The Lollipop is imported from Turkey - but I have no idea what it is called outside of South Africa. There are however, similar colours in the Stylecraft Special DK - Lime, Meadow, Cloud Blue, Lavender and Plum)

Stripe Composition:

1 row of each:    Avo; Khaki, Saxe Blue, Violet, Plum (rows 1 - 5)

2 rows of each:  Avo; Khaki, Saxe Blue, Violet, Plum (Rows 6 - 15)

3 rows of each:   Avo; Khaki, Saxe Blue, Violet, Plum (rows 16 - 30)

4 rows of each:  Avo; Khaki, Saxe Blue, Violet, Plum (rows 31 - 50)

1 row of each:  Avo; Khaki, Saxe Blue, Violet, Plum
(rows 51 - 55) 

1 row Avo (row 56)
1 row Saxe Blue (row 57)
1 row Khaki (row 58)
1 row Violet (row 59)
1 row Saxe Blue (row 60)
1 row Khaki (row 61)
1 row Avo (row 62) 

Hook:   5.50mm 

Foundation:  crochet 6ch

Row 1:     Into first chain (the 6th chain from your hook) 


triangle shawl


[crochet (2dc, 3ch, 2dc - this forms the point of your shawl), 1ch, 1dc]


triangle shawl

(turn your work so that you are now working along the "wrong side")


triangle shawl
 
Row 2:  4ch (counts as 1dc, 1ch)


triangle shawl

2dc into 1ch sp


triangle shawl

1dc between the next two dc


triangle shawl

[2dc, 3ch, 2dc into 3ch sp (point formed)]


triangle shawl

1dc between next two dc;   (2dc, 1ch, 1dc) into 1ch sp at end of row


triangle shawl

(turn your work so that you are now working along the "right side")

Row 3:  4ch (counts as 1dc, 1ch), 2dc into 1ch sp;   1dc between each dc on previous row;  2dc, 3ch, 2dc into point;  1dc between each dc on previous row;  2dc, 1ch,  1dc into 1ch sp at end of row
(turn your work) 


triangle shawl

Rows 4 - 55:  Repeat Row 3

(this means that you repeat the pattern row you have crocheted in Row 3 - i.e. just continue to follow the pattern in the red text for the next 52 Rows)


Border:

Row 56:  3ch (counts as 1hdc, 1ch), 2hdc into 1ch sp;  [3ch, skip 2 spaces between dc (this means you will skip 3dc posts) 1hdc into the 3rd space] 


triangle shawl

repeat this with the last hdc being made into the 3ch space of the point (corner); 3ch; 1hdc into same 3ch space;   


triangle shawl

[3ch, skip 2 spaces between dc (this means you will skip 3dc posts) 1hdc into the 3rd space] repeat this until there are 3dc posts left at the end of the row;   2hdc, 1ch, 1hdc into the chain space at the end of the row. 


triangle shawl

(turn your work) 

Row 57:  4ch (counts as 1dc, 1ch), 2dc into 1ch sp;  [3dc (3dc group) into next 3ch space] repeat this until you reach the point (corner)

Into the 3ch space work 3dc, 3ch, 3dc;

triangle shawl

[3dc (3dc group) into next 3ch space] repeat this up to and including the last 3ch space;

2dc; 1ch, 1dc into the chain space at the end of the row (turn your work)

Row 58:   3ch (counts as 1hdc, 1ch), 2hdc into 1ch sp;   3ch, skip 2dc;  (1hdc into space before next 3dc group; 3ch);    repeat this with the last 3ch repeat being made just before the point (corner)

1hdc, 3ch, 1hdc into the 3ch space of the point (corner);


(3ch; 1hdc into space before next 3dc group; 3ch) repeat this to the space before the the last 3dc group;

1hdc into the space after the last 3dc group;   3ch;

2hdc, 1ch, 1hdc into the chain space at the end of the row.

Row 59:  Repeat Row 57


Row 60:  Repeat Row 58


Row 61:  Repeat Row 57

Row 62:  Into the 1ch space at the start of the row work 3dc;  (3ch, 1sc into next sp;  3ch, 2dc into next  sp) repeat this with your last 2dc being into the corner 3ch;  3ch, and crochet another 2dc into the corner;

triangle shawl

(3ch, 1sc into next sp,  3ch, 2dc into next sp) repeat to last sp;   3ch, 2dc into 1ch space at end of row.

(We are now going to do the base edging - the longest side of the triangle which is formed as you do your rows)

Into same 1ch space work 3hdc; 



triangle shawl

sl st into side of first dc post, (2ch, 1hdc, sl st into side of next dc post) repeat to last dc post, 3hdc, sl st into top of 3ch at start of row to end.

I would just like to say a very special THANK YOU to the following ladies for checking my pattern for me:

Joy Merrill (JOYFUL YARNS'S PATTERN STORE)

Lisa Kingsley (LISA KINGSLEY'S PATTERN STORE)

Michelle Westlund (CROCHET BETWEEN WORLDS)

Eleanor Thomson (Nelnanandnora)

Cosmos Fields Shawl: Print Friendly Pattern

Pattern Terms:   US

Yarn:   100% 8ply (DK / light worsted) Acrylic Yarn

Hook:   5.50mm

Foundation:   6ch

Row 1:   Into the 6th chain from your hook (2dc, 3ch, 2dc - this forms the point of your shawl);  1ch, 1dc (turn your work so that you are now working along the "wrong side")



Row 2:  4ch (counts as 1dc, 1ch), 2dc into 1ch sp;  1dc between each dc on previous row;  (2dc, 3ch, 2dc into 3ch sp - point formed);  1dc between each dc on previous row;   2dc, 1ch, 1dc into 1ch sp at end of row (turn your work so that you are now working along the "right side")

Row 3:  4ch (counts as 1dc, 1ch), 2dc into 1ch sp;   1dc between each dc on previous row;  2dc, 3ch, 2dc into point;  1dc between each dc on previous row;  2dc, 1ch,  1dc into 1ch sp at end of row
(turn your work)

Rows 4 - 55:  Repeat Row 3

(this means that you repeat the pattern row you have crocheted in Row 3 - i.e. just continue to follow the pattern in the red text for the next 52 Rows)


Border:

Row 56:  3ch (counts as 1hdc, 1ch), 2hdc into 1ch sp;  [3ch, skip 2 spaces between dc (this means you will skip 3dc posts) 1hdc into the 3rd space] repeat this with the last hdc being made into the 3ch space of the point (corner); 3ch; 1hdc into same 3ch space; [3ch, skip 2 spaces between dc (this means you will skip 3dc posts) 1hdc into the 3rd space] repeat this until there are 3dc posts left at the end of the row;   2hdc, 1ch, 1hdc into the chain space at the end of the row (turn your work) 

Row 57:  4ch (counts as 1dc, 1ch), 2dc into 1ch sp;  [3dc (3dc group) into next 3ch space] repeat this until you reach the point (corner) into the 3ch space work 3dc, 3ch, 3dc;  [3dc (3dc group) into next 3ch space] repeat this to the last 3ch space;  2dc; 1ch, 1dc into the chain space at the end of the row, (turn your work)

Row 58:   3ch (counts as 1hdc, 1ch), 2hdc into 1ch sp;   3ch, skip 2dc;  (1hdc into space before next 3dc group; 3ch);    repeat this with the last 3ch repeat being made just before the point (corner); 1hdc, 3ch, 1hdc into the 3ch space of the point (corner);  (3ch; 1hdc into space before next 3dc group; 3ch) repeat this to the space before the the last 3dc group;  1hdc into the space after the last 3dc group;   3ch;  (2hdc, 1ch, 1hdc into the chain space at the end of the row).

Row 59:  Repeat Row 57


Row 60:  Repeat Row 58


Row 61:  Repeat Row 57

Row 62:  Into the 1ch space work at the start of the row work 3dc;  (3ch, 1sc into next sp;  3ch, 2dc into next sp) repeat this with your last 2dc being into the corner 3ch;  3ch, and crochet another 2dc into the corner;

(3ch, 1sc into next sp,  3ch, 2dc into next sp) repeat to last sp;   (3ch, 2dc into 1ch space at end of row)

(We are now going to do the base edging - the longest side of the triangle which is formed as you do your rows)

Into same 1ch space work 3hdc; 

sl st into side of first dc post, (2ch, 1hdc, sl st into side of next dc post) repeat to last dc post, 3hdc, sl st into top of 3ch at start of row to end.

NOTE:     Error corrected Row 1 (please check this if you have already printed this page)

Friday, 5 September 2014

Happy Days CAL (5): POPCORN FLOWER AND LEAVES

Welcome to Part 5 of our Happy Days Blanket Crochet Along! 

It is not too late to join in the fun!     The patterns will remain on my blog - so you can crochet along at your own pace.      

Here are the links so far:

PART 1 (Hakuna Matata Mandala Square) (where you will find all the necessary info about this project);
 
Part 2 (Sunny Flower Square);

Part 3 (Tic-Tac-Toe Square); and


Part 4 (Solid Granny Square)

So far we have made:
4 x Hakuna Matata Squares (28cm x 28cm each)
10 x  Sunny Flower Squares (14cm x 14cm each)
4 x  Tic-Tac-Toe Squares (28cm x 28cm each)

10 x Solid Granny Squares (14cm x 14cm each)

Last week we joined the Sunny Flower Squares and the Solid Granny Squares to make 5 bigger 28cm x 28cm Squares: 
 
 crochet blanket

The CAL blankets are looking quite fabulous so far:

crochet blankets

This weeks square is a Popcorn Flower & Leaves (a slight variation on a pattern I used for the Baby Groovyghan (if you need a bit of help with the "popcorns" you can find the tutorial HERE)


We will be making 8 of these squares

popcorn stitch squares
 

POPCORN FLOWER AND LEAVES SQUARE

YARN:  DK (8ply / light worsted weight) 100% acrylic 

 
HOOK:  5.00mm


SIZE:  14cm x 14cm

PATTERN TERMS:   US

I will include this conversion chart with each pattern to make it easier for those using UK terms


crochet terms conversion chart

Foundation:   4ch, sl st to join OR make a magic ring;


Row 1:  3 ch (counts as 1 dc):  11 dc into circle (12 dc), sl st into top of 3ch to join, break off yarn

Row 2:  Join yarn in any dc, 3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc into top of  same dc;  [2dc into top of next dc (2dc group)] x11 = 24dc, sl st into top of 3ch to join, break off yarn

Row 3:  Join yarn in any space between a 2dc 
group;   3ch (counts as 1dc), 4dc into same space as join, form popcorn, 2ch;  (popcorn stitch into space between next 2dc group, 2ch) x 11;   sl st into top of first popcorn to join, break of yarn

NOTE:   A Popcorn Stitch is formed by crocheting 5dc then removing the hook from the last loop, inserting the hook front to back on the first dc, and again into last loop, yoh and pull through 

Row 4:  Join yarn in any 2ch space between popcorns;  2ch (counts as 1hdc), 2hdc into same space as join;   3hdc into next 2ch sp;  (1 popcorn stitch, 3ch, 1 popcorn stitch into next 2ch space - corner formed, 1ch);    [3hdc into each of next two 2ch spaces;  (1 popcorn stitch, 3ch, 1 popcorn stitch into next 2ch space, 1ch)] x 3;  sl st into top of 2ch at start to close;   break off yarn

Row 5:  Join yarn in corner 3ch;  6ch (counts as 1dc, 3ch) 3dc into same space;  (3dc into each of next 3 spaces;  3dc, 3ch, 3dc into next space)x3;  3dc into each of next 3 spaces,  2dc into corner space;  sl st into third of 6ch at start to close;   do not break off yarn


Row 6:  sl into 3ch space;  3ch (counts as 1dc), 2dc, 3ch, 3dc into same space as sl st;   (3dc into each of next 4 spaces;  3dc, 3ch, 3dc into corner 3ch) x3;  3dc into each of next 4 spaces;  sl st into top of 3ch at start to close;   break off yarn

Row 7:  Join yarn any corner 3ch;   2ch (counts as 1hdc) 1hdc, 3ch, 2hdc in same space;  1hdc into top of each dc;   into corner 3ch crochet 2hdc, 3ch, 2hdc across all four sides; sl st into top of 2ch at start to close,   break off yarn

popcorn stitch square


The pattern for the next square will be posted on Friday, 19 September 2014.

Please post the photos of your progress on my Zooty Owl Facebook page so that I can share them with my next post!


Have fun!!


(Part 6:    Box Stitch Square can be found HERE)

Monday, 1 September 2014

The Road Trip Scarf: Getting Started


A few crocheters seem to be having a bit of difficulty with the triangle concept for the ROAD TRIP SCARF – so this version is written with more detailed explanations on how to start, getting from row to row, and some useful notes, etc, so that EVERYBODY on the planet can have a Road Trip Scarf!!!

The pattern as written (over 34 rows) is designed to be worked in a 100% acrylic variegated yarn (100g / 300m) in DK (8ply /light worsted weight).   However, the stitch composition is very uncomplicated - making the pattern suitable for both variegated and solid colour yarns!

Various yarn blends also work well with this pattern – 100% merino (wool), acrylic/wool blends and “soft” cottons.

Thinner yarns may be used – just keep repeating the pattern row (Row 3) until you reach the required size.     Always make sure you end on an even number of rows before starting your edging!

Thicker yarns may also be used, although I would not recommend using anything heavier than Aran (10ply / worsted weight), unless you are going to make the scarf substantially bigger.

The scarf is worked seamlessly (in one piece) as a single triangle from the top to the bottom - your first row being the top of the shawl which will lie at the base of your throat, and the last row which will drape over your chest.


Notes:

Right Side / Wrong Side:     We will talk about every odd row as the right side (eg, rows 1, 3, 5, 7, 9 etc are the right side);    and every even row as the wrong side (eg, rows 2, 4, 6, 8, 10 etc)

Side Increases are made at the beginning AND end of every row.   The increase of 2dc at the beginning of a row is made into the 1ch space at the end of the previous row.    The increase of 2dc at the end of the row is made into the 4ch loop which is formed at the start of the previous row (you will note that at the beginning of a row I say that the 4ch counts as 1dc, 1ch, so this  is not "seen" as a 4ch loop when working the next row but as a 1ch space and then 1dc at the very end of the row - when writing the pattern I will NOT say to crochet into the 4ch loop at the end of the row - I DO say to crochet into the 1ch space at the end of the row   

The Point (or corner) is formed in your very first row (2dc, 3ch, 2dc).     Throughout the shawl you will work 1dc, 3ch, 1dc into the 3ch space from the previous row.

If your increases are correct you WILL have a perfect triangle.    If the triangle pulls outward - you are increasing too much.   If the triangle pulls inward (like a kite) you are increasing too little.


Stitches:   We are using two basic stitches only for the scarf - chain (ch) and double crochet (dc) (US terms);      UK CROCHETERS will be using a treble and not a double crochet.

Rows 4 - 32:  Repeat Row 3
(this means that you repeat the pattern row you have crocheted in Row 3 - i.e. just continue to follow the pattern in the highlighted area for the next 28 Rows)

ROAD TRIP SCARF PATTERN 

SIZE:  106cm Wide;   48cm long

Foundation:   6ch
Row 1:     Into first chain (the 6th chain from your hook) [crochet 2dc, 3ch, 2dc ( this forms the point of your shawl);  now also crochet 1ch, 1dc into the same place]

road trip scarf


road trip scarf


(turn your work so that you are now working along the "wrong side")

road trip scarf

Row 2:
Working up the right side of the triangle 4ch (counts as 1dc, 1ch); 2dc into 1ch sp,  1ch;


skip 1dc, 1dc into next dc, 1ch;



1dc, 3ch, 1dc into 3ch sp (point), 


Working down the left side of the triangle 1ch; 1dc into next dc, 


1ch, skip 1dc; 2dc, 1ch, 1dc into space at the end of the row;   


(turn your work so that you are now working along the "right side")

Row 3:  Working up the right hand side of the the triangle 4ch (counts as 1dc, 1ch);   2dc into 1ch sp, 1ch;   skip 1dc;   (1dc into next dc, 1ch) repeat to point (this means that you crochet one dc into each dc from the previous row with a 1ch sp in between each dc) 


Into the three chain space which forms the point crochet (1dc, 3ch, 1dc);


Working down the left hand side of the triangle (1ch, 1dc into next dc)  


repeat to 2nd last dc,


skip last dc, 1ch 2dc, ch,1dc into space at the end of the row



Rows 4 - 32:  Repeat Row 3
(this means that you repeat the pattern row you have crocheted in Row 3 - i.e. just continue to follow the pattern in the highlighted area for the next 29 Rows

I am busy working on a detailed tutorial for the EDGING as well - there is, however a video in the original blog post showing how to do the second row. 

I have also posted the video on my Zooty Owl Facebook page - for those whose browsers cannot load the video from the blog post!

The print friendly version of the pattern can be found HERE

**********************************************************************

In 2014 when I created my Road Trip scarf I had no idea that it would be so ridiculously popular. I had a lot of requests for a longer scarf along similar lines. I finally got around to it - the result is a long “baktus style” scarf with two possible edgings. Either a frilly edge for a whimsical look or a zig-zag bobble edging. (The original Road Trip Scarf edging and trims would also work well with this design) 




The Day Trip Scarf differs from the Road Trip Scarf in that it increases steadily in length and gradually in width, whereas the Road Trip Scarf increases evenly in length and width. 


The pattern for the Day Trip Scarf is available in my RAVELRY STORE