Rainbow Vermicelli Coasters: Pattern

Last week Thursday (pre holidays, and pre Starflower Mandala Fever - which you can read about HERE, HERE and HERE) I ordered a stash of lovely Raeesah Cotton Soft (100% Cotton) and a few balls of a pretty variegated Courtelle I wanted to try out. 

First thing Tuesday (post holidays, and amidst Mandala Fever) the Courier arrived with my parcels:

Pretty!!!!    Pretty!!

A few ladies new to the art of crochet asked me to create an easy Mandala for them to hook.    Of course that was the perfect excuse to start a new project using my lovely new stash!

I kept the stitchwork very simple so that (a) it would be easy to make and (b) I could use my variegated cottons!

I was having so much fun with this - and the variegated yarn reminded me of the Rainbow Vermicelli my children loved sprinkling on cakes and milkshakes when they were younger!

A few more rows and it was done!   This time actually writing the pattern as I did each row! (A first for me as I usually get so carried away with the crocheting that I forget to write the pattern down).

Four lovely ladies are testing the pattern with me at the moment - a bit slow going, as the ladies have to squeeze in a few rows between children, husband and home.

The first rows of the pattern have been tested (and, according to the testers, are perfect!)

I plan to use this Mandala on the patio and a few matching coasters seemed like a good idea!

They do look a bit wonky in the photo - but a quick puff of steam from the iron will sort that out in no time!

6 Quick and easy rows, work up to a coaster 12cm in diameter.

Rainbow Vermicelli Coasters

Pattern Terms:  US

Yarn:  Raeesah Cotton Soft DK (100% cotton)
Hook:  4.00mm 

Foundation:  5ch, ss to join

Row 1:  3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc, 2ch into circle;  *2dc, 2ch into circle* *to* x 5 ss into top of 3ch to close

Row 2:  Join yarn in any 2ch space;  3ch (counts as 1dc), 2dc into same space as join, 2ch:  *3dc, 2ch into next 2ch space* *to* x 5, ss into top of 3ch to close (6 x 3dc, 2ch groups)

Row 3:  Join yarn in any 2ch space;  3ch (counts as 1 dc), 5dc into same space as join (6dc group), 1ch;  *6dc, 1ch into next 2ch space (6dc group)* *to* x 5;   ss into top of 3ch to close (6 x 6dc, 1ch groups)

Row 4:  Join yarn in 1st dc of any 6dc group;  3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc into same place as join, 1dc into each of next 4dc, 2dc into last dc on 6dc group (8dc group);  *2dc into first dc on next 6dc group, 1 dc into each of next 4dc, 2dc into last dc on 6dc group (8dc group)* *to* all around;  ss into top of 3ch to close (6 x 8dc groups = 48 dc)

Row 5:  Join yarn in 1st dc of any 8dc group;   3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc into same place as join, 1dc into each of next 6dc, 2dc into last dc on 8dc group, *2dc into first dc on next 8dc group, 1dc into each of next 6dc, 2dc into last dc on 8dc group* *to* all around,  ss into top of 3ch to close 

Row 6   ss into any dc;  *1ch, 1ss into top of  next dc*  *to* to end 1ch, ss into ss at start of edging.

A little bit of quick, colourful hooking fun - perfect for using up yarn scraps!

Starflower Mandala: Pattern

About a week ago I made a STARFLOWER MANDALA

I posted this photo in online groups and within a few hours I had hundreds of requests for the pattern,

I started making another Starflower Mandala so that I could write up the pattern;   while I was writing it up a few lovely ladies from various crochet groups were helping me test the pattern.

We completed the first phase of the testing yesterday morning after I had finished my second mandala:

Another group of lovely ladies helped me run a second test - and I made a THIRD mandala:

I was going to do a complete tutorial for the pattern but the ladies who tested the pattern have assured me that the pattern is very easy to follow.

So, without further ado, here it is:

THE STARFLOWER MANDALA PATTERN


Yarn:  Stylecraft Special DK;   

Hook:  3.50mm

Size:  33cm in diameter

Pattern Terms:  US

(I have included this conversion chart for my UK readers)

Foundation:  6ch, ss to first chain to form a circle

Row 1:  Into the circle,  2ch 2dc cluster, 3ch;   *3dc cluster, 3ch* crochet *to* 5x (6 clusters), ss  into top of first cluster to close,  break off yarn

Note:   a 3dc cluster is formed as follows - yarn over hook, work the first part of the stitch leaving 2 loops on your hook, repeat this twice more (four loops on hook) Yarn over hook and draw through the loops on the hook to form your cluster

Row 2:  Into any 3ch sp, 3ch, 3dc 1ch;  *into next 3ch sp, 4dc (4dc group), 1ch* *to* 5x   (24dc);  ss into top of 3ch at start of row to close

  
Row 3:  Join yarn in sp between 1st and 2nd dc on any 4dc group;  3ch, 1dc into same space;  2dc into each of next 2 spaces between dc;  8ch;  *2dc into each sp between dc on next 4dc group, 8ch* *to* 5x;   ss into top of 3ch at start of row to close.

Note:   3 x groupings of 2dc formed between each 8ch

Row 4:  Join yarn with ss into first dc after any 8ch sp;   ss through front and back loops on next 5dc;  *into 8ch sp, 1sc, 1hdc, 3dc, 1tr, 3ch, 1tr, 3dc, 1hdc, 1sc (Petal formed);  1ss through front and back loops on next 6dc* *to* x5;  into last 8ch sp, 1sc, 1hdc, 3dc, 1tr, 3ch, 1tr, 3dc, 1hdc, 1sc;  break off yarn.

I suppose there could be some debate about the correct way to end this row off, but this works for me:

With a tapestry needle, pull the yarn through from front to back on the first ss, pull to tighten neatly. then thread the yarn through the back loops on the next 5 ss.

Row 5:  Join yarn into the top of the 3rd dc on Row 3;   3ch, 1dc into top of next dc,  *3ch, 1sc into first dc on Petal, 1hdc into next dc,  1dc into each of next 2 stitches;  2dc, 1tr, 3ch, 1tr, 2dc into 3ch sp;  1dc into each of next 2 stitches, 1hdc into next dc, 1sc into next dc,  3ch;  1dc into each of the 3rd and 4th dc on Row 3* *to* x5;   3ch, 1sc into first dc on Petal, 1hdc into next dc,  1dc into each of next 2 stitches;  2dc, 1tr, 3ch, 1tr, 2dc into 3ch sp;  1dc into each of next 2 stitches, 1hdc into next dc, 1sc into next dc,  3ch,  ss into top of 3ch at start of row to close.

Row 6:  Join yarn into centre of any "middle" 2dc grouping, 3ch, 1dc;  *3ch, 1sc into first dc on Petal, 1hdc into next dc,  1dc into each of next 3 stitches;  2dc, 3ch, 2dc into 3ch sp;  1dc into each of next 3 stitches, 1hdc into next dc, 1sc into next dc,  3ch;  2dc into the centre of  "middle" 2dc grouping* *to* x5;   3ch, 1sc into first dc on Petal, 1hdc into next dc,  1dc into each of next 3 stitches;  2dc, 3ch, 2dc into 3ch sp;  1dc into each of next 3 stitches, 1hdc into next dc, 1sc into next dc,  3ch, ss into top of start 3ch

Row 7:  Join yarn into centre of any "middle" 2dc grouping, 1ch, 1sc;  *6ch, 1sc into first dc on Petal, 1hdc into next dc,  1dc into each of next 3 dc;  2dc, 3ch, 2dc into 3ch sp;  1dc into each of next 3 dc, 1hdc into next dc, 1sc into next dc,  6ch;  1 sc into the centre of  "middle" 2dc grouping* *to* x5;   6ch, 1sc into first dc on Petal, 1hdc into next dc,  1dc into each of next 3 dc;  2dc, 3ch, 2dc into 3ch sp;  1dc into each of next 3 dc, 1hdc into next dc, 1sc into next dc,  6ch, ss into start 1ch

Row 8:  Join yarn into first dc on right hand side of any petal 1ch, 1sc into same dc, 1hdc into next dc, 1 dc into each of next 3dc;  2dc, 3ch, 2dc into 3ch sp;  1dc into each of next 3dc; 1hdc into next dc, 1sc into next dc *6ch, 1sc into 6ch on Row 7; 6ch, 1sc into 6ch on Row 7; 6ch 1sc into first dc on petal, 1hdc into next dc, 1dc into each of next 3dc;  2dc, 3ch, 2dc into 3ch sp;  1dc into each of next 3dc, 1hdc into next dc, 1sc into next dc* *to* x5;  6ch, 1sc into 6ch on Row 7; 6ch, 1sc into 6ch on Row 7; 6ch, ss into 1ch at start of row

Row 9:  Join yarn into 4th dc on right hand side of any petal;  3ch, 1dc into next dc;  2dc, 3ch, 2dc into 3ch sp;  1dc into each of next 2dc; *(6ch, 1sc into 6ch sp) x3;  6ch;  1dc into 4th dc on petal, 1dc into next dc;  2dc, 3ch, 2dc into 3ch sp;  1dc into each of next 2dc* *to* x5;  (6ch, 1sc into 6ch sp) x3;  6ch

Row 10:  Join yarn into third dc on right side of any petal;  2ch, 1hdc into next dc;  2hdc, 2ch, 2hdc into 3ch sp; 1hdc into each of next 2dc;  *6ch, 1sc into 6ch sp;  6ch, 4dc into next 6ch space;  4dc into next 6ch space;  6ch, 1sc into 6ch sp;  6ch, 1hdc into third dc on petal, 1hdc into next dc;  2hdc, 2ch, 2hdc into 3ch sp;  1hdc into each of next 2dc* *to* x5;  6ch, 1sc into 6ch sp;  6ch, 4dc into next 6ch space;  4dc into next 6ch space;  6ch, 1sc into 6ch sp;  6ch ss into top of 2ch at start of row

Row 11:   Join yarn into third hdc on right side of any petal;   2ch, 1hdc into next hdc, 3hdc into 2ch sp, 1hdc into each of next 2hdc;  *6ch, 3dc into 6ch sp;  6ch,  (1tr into each of next 4 dc) x2;  6ch,  skip first 6ch sp, 3dc into next 6ch sp;  6ch 1hdc into third hdc, 1hdc into next hdc, 3hdc into 2ch sp, 1hdc into each of next 2hdc* *to* x5; ss into top of 2ch at start of row to close

Row 12: Join yarn between 3rd and 4th hdc on right hand side of any petal;  2ch, 1hdc between 4th and 5th hdc, *1ch;  6dc, into each of next two  6ch spaces; 1ch,  skip 1st tr on Row 11;  1tr into each of next 6 tr;  1ch;  6dc into each of next two 6ch spaces, 1ch;  1hdc between 3rd and 4th hdc;  1hdc between 4th and 5th hdc* *to* x5;  1ch;  6dc, 1ch into each of next 2  6ch spaces;  skip 1st tr on Row 11;  1tr into each of next 6 tr;  1ch;  6dc, 1ch into each of next 2 6ch spaces;  ss into top of 2ch at start of row to close 

Row 13:  Join yarn between 2hdc at top of petal;  2ch;  *1hdc into 1ch space, 1hdc into each of next 6dc;  1dc into each of next 6dc; 1tr into each of next 6tr;  1dc into each of next 6dc;  1hdc into each of next 6dc; 1hdc into 1 ch space;  1hdc into space between 2hdc at top of petal*  *to* x5;   1hdc into 1ch space, 1hdc into each of next 6dc;  1dc into each of next 6dc; 1tr into each of next 6tr;  1dc into each of next 6dc;  1hdc into each of next 6dc; 1hdc into 1 ch space,  ss into top of 2ch at start of row to close

Row 14:   Join yarn into second tr of any 6tr sequence on Row 13;   4ch, 1tr into each of next 4tr;  1dc into each of next  13 stitches;  1tr into each of next 2hdc;  1dc into each of next 13 stitches;   *1tr into each of next 5tr:  1dc into each of next  13 stitches;  1tr into each of next 2hdc;  1dc into each of next 13 stitches* *to* x 5;   ss into top of 4ch at start of row to close;

Row 15:  (EDITED)  Join yarn in space between any 2tr at top of petal;  5ch (counts as 1sc and 4ch), skip two spaces then 1 sc in next space;  *4ch, skip 2 spaces, then 1sc in next space*  until last 2 spaces, 4ch, ss into 1st chain at start of row

Row 16:  Join yarn in any 4ch space, 3ch, 2dc in same space, 1ch;  *3dc, 1ch in next 4ch space* to end of row, ss into top of 3ch at start of row to close

Row 17:   Join yarn in 2nd dc of any 3dc group on Row 16;  1ch, 1sc in same space as join, 1ch;  *dc spike to the left of the sc in Row 15;  dc spike to the right of the sc in Row 15 (crossover spike made), 1ch 1sc into the second dc of next 3dc group 1ch* *to* to end of row ss into 1ch at start of row to close.

Note:  When doing the spike stitch keep your tension even but not too tight

Row 18:  Join yarn  with a ss in 1ch sp to the left of any crossover spike, ss in next 1ch sp, *6ch, ss into 4th ch from hook;  ss into 1ch sp to the left of next crossover stitch, ss into next 1ch* *to* to the right of the last crossover spike;  6ch, ss into 4th ch from hook, ss into ss at start of row.

PS:  I have prepared a row by row photo aid to this pattern, which can be found HERE

Not Quite A Daffodil Square: Pattern

Yesterday I needed to make a quick gift.

So I chose a few soft colours and hooked up a couple of pretty flower squares to make up something fun!

This is how they are done (in case you would like to make a few too):

Pattern Terms:  US

Yarn:  Stylecraft Special DK for the squares and flower centres;    Mirage 4ply for the Petals
(The Stylecraft Special DK is quite "thin" compared to our South African DK - it is much closer to our 4ply)

Hook:  3.50mm

Size:  12cm x 12cm


Row 1:  Into the ring,  2ch 2dc cluster, 3ch;   *3dc cluster, 3ch* crochet *to* 5x (6 clusters), ss into top of cluster to close

Notes:   

• a 3dc cluster is formed as follows - yarn over hook, work the first part of the stitch leaving 2 loops on your hook, repeat this twice more (four loops on hook) Yarn over hook and draw through the hooks on the loop to form your cluster

• The 3ch "loop" between clusters forms your "front loop" into which the petals of your flower will be worked 

Row 2:  Into the same space as the ss, 1ch, 1sc, 4ch;  *1sc into top of next cluster, 4ch* *to* 5x (6x four chain loops formed), ss into 1ch at start of row, break off yarn.

Note:   The 4ch "loop" forms your "back loop" into which the first row of your square (row 3) will be worked

Row 3:   Join colour you are using for the square in any 4ch sp, 3ch, 3dc, 1ch;  *4dc, 1ch* *to* 5x (6 x 4dc clusters formed) (24 stitches), ss to close

Row 4:   Into first space between dc on previous row 3ch, 1dc;  *into next space between dc, 1dc,  into next space between dc, 2dc) repeat *to* to last space between dc, 1dc, ss into top of 3ch to close (36 stitches) 

Row 5:  Into same place as ss work 3ch, 1dc into top of next 7 dc (8dc);   *2tr, 3ch, 2tr into top of next dc;  1dc into top of each of next 8dc* *to* 3 times; 2tr, 3ch, 2tr into top of last dc; ss into top of 3ch to join.

Row 6:  3ch; 1dc into top of each of next 7dc;  1dc into top of each of 2 cnr tr;  2dc, 3ch, 2dc into cnr 2ch; *1dc into each of next 2tr;   1dc into each of next 8dc; 1dc into each of next 2tr;   2dc, 3ch, 2dc into cnr 2ch* *to* 3 times;  1dc into each of next 2tr;  ss into top of 3ch. break off yarn

Row 7:  Into top of any dc, 3ch;   1dc into top of each dc;   into corner 3ch make 2dc, 3ch, 2dc
 
Petals

Join Colour for Petals in  any "front loop" 3ch sp formed on Row 1;

2ch, 2dc, 1tr, 1 picot, 1tr, 2dc, 2ch, ss into same space;

*ss into next 3ch sp,  2ch, 2dc, 1tr, 1 picot, 1tr, 2dc, 2ch, ss into same space* *to* x5, ss into same sp as first petal to close.   Break off yarn

I added a row of white in Mirage 4ply (repeat Row 7)

I then added a little bit of detail of the petals:

Just looks like spring (although we are quite deep into Autumn here)!

In a bit of a crazy rush - so this is not much of a post!    Lots and lots of patterns to write and tutorials to do!

Happy hooking!

(PS:   If you would like to make the flowers on their own you can find the link HERE)

(PPS:   Have not had the pattern tested - so please if you find any errors, don't be shy to let me know)

Starflower Mandala

Late Friday night (so late it was in fact already Saturday!) my hands were too cramped to crochet anymore.   I  was sitting at my desk doodling with my colour pencils and koki pens (please do not laugh - it WAS really late!).

I had a lightbulb moment - make the doodle into a crochet motif!   Grabbed a hook and a heap of yarn scraps and hooked up a very "rough" draft

Yesterday morning, using my Stylecraft Special DK and a 3.50mm hook I started working on an improved version of the idea

Lots and lots of stitches and a couple of movies later and it was done!

17 Rows of colourful fun crochet!

Measuring 33cm in diameter!

The STARFLOWER MANDALA!

I scribbled the pattern as I went along - but it needs a LOT of tidying up.    Making a second mandala so that I can sort out the pattern and make a tutorial to share. 

Daisy Centre Mandala Square

Woo hoo I managed to turn the DAISY CENTRE MANDALA into a square!     I think these will make a fantastic stashbusting afghan

I used a light grey to do the squaring.

Here is how I did it:

Row 1:   into sp between any 7dc cluster on last row of Mandala, 4ch;  (3ch 1sc into top of 4th dc on next 7dc cluster;   3ch 1sc into sp between next 7dc cluster) repeat to last sp between clusters; 3ch, 1sc into 4dc on last 7dc cluster;  3ch ss into first chain at start of row

Row 2:  ss into first 3ch sp, 3sc; 1ch   (into next 3ch sp, 3sc, 1ch) x2;   (into next 3ch sp, 3hdc, 1ch) x2;  (into next 3ch sp, 3dc, 1ch) x 2:  into next 3ch sp 3tr, 3ch, 3tr, 1ch  (first corner formed);  [(into next 3ch sp, 3dc, 1ch) x2;  (into next 3ch sp, 3hdc, 1ch) x2;  (into next 3ch sp, 3sc, 1ch) x3; (into next 3ch sp, 3hdc, 1ch) x2;  (into next 3ch sp, 3dc, 1ch) x2;   (into next 3ch sp, 3tr, 3ch, 3tr, 1ch - corner formed)] x3;  (into next 3ch sp, 3dc, 1ch) x2;   (into next 3ch sp, 3hdc, 1ch) x2;   ss into ch at start

At this stage your square will still be looking slightly curved

Row 3:  4ch, sc into next 1ch sp; (3ch, 1sc into next 1ch sp) repeat  to 2nd last 1ch sp;  3ch ss into 1st chain at start
Note:  into corner 3ch do sc, 3ch, sc

Row 4:  ss into 3ch sp;  2ch; 2hdc, 1ch;  (3hdc, 1ch into next 3ch sp)  x4;  (3dc, 1ch into next 3ch sp) x2;   3tr, 1ch into next 3ch sp   [3tr, 3ch, 3tr, 1ch into corner 3ch;   3tr, 1ch into next 3ch sp;   (3dc, 1ch into next 3ch sp) x2;   (3hd, 1ch into next 3ch sp) x7;  (3dc, 1ch into next 3ch sp) x2;   3tr, 1ch into next 3ch sp] x3;   3tr, 3ch, 3tr; 1ch into last 3ch corner sp;  3tr, 1ch into next 3ch sp;   3tr, 1c into next 3ch sp;  (3dc, 1ch into next 3ch sp) x2;  (3hdc, 1ch into next 3ch sp) x2;  ss into top of start 2ch to close

The edges do look every so slightly untidy - so if I was going to use this as an aghan block I would do a row of 3dc cluster around to tidy it up nicely!

Large Daisy Centre Mandala: Pattern

I have started assembling my "big" project - but not sure whether this project is going to be completed or just frogged!?

Happily my Mandala pattern was very popular!    It will be one of the designs featured by the Creative Crochet Crew Facebook Group for their CAL on 29 April 2014!    It was also featured on ERIKA'S CRAFTY CORNER

I had to make a two bigger Mandalas for the project:

I have had quite a few requests for the pattern for the larger Mandala - so here it is!


LARGE DAISY CENTRE MANDALA PATTERN:

Pattern terms:   US
Hook:  5.00mm 
Yarn:   Elle Pullskein DK

Each row is worked in a different colour

Note:    these Mandalas are components of a bigger project I am working on - I needed them to be "stretchy" and therefore used a larger hook;    A 4.00mm to 4.50mm depending on your tension will probably be a better option for this type of yarn


Rows 1 - 11:   Follow the pattern for the Daisy Centre Mandala over HERE 

Row 12:   Into any dc, 3ch;   1dc into each dc to end, ss to close, break off yarn 

Row 13:   Into top of any dc 6ch *1dc, 3ch into top of 4th dc from hook* repeat * to * to end, ss to close, break off yarn 

Row 14:  Into any 3ch sp, 3ch 4dc; *5dc into next 3ch sp* repeat *to* to end, ss to close, break off yarn 

Row 15:  Into any dc, 3ch;   1dc into each dc to end, ss to close, break off yarn 

Row 16:  Into any dc directly in line with dc on Row 13:  7ch, into top of 5th dc from hook 1sc;  *6ch, into top of 5th dc from hook 1sc* repeat *to* to end, ss into 1st of 7ch 

Row 17:  ss along first three chain of  Row 16; sc *7ch, sc into 6ch space* repeat *to* to last 6ch sp;  6ch ss into first sc to close, break off yarn 

Row 18:   Into any 7ch sp; 3ch, 6dc;  *7dc into each 7ch sp* repeat *to* to end, ss to join.  break off yarn

Daisy Centre Mandala Pattern

I am not really a Mandala "person", but I have been seeing a lot of them lately - such bursts of inspirational colour! 

The other afternoon I was not in the mood for any of my WIP's - I desperately needed a bit of colourplay!    

This is the result of an afternoon and evening well spent:

DAISY CENTRE MANDALA:

Pattern terms:   US
Hook:  5.00mm 
Yarn:   Elle Pullskein DK

Each row is worked in a different colour

Note:    these Mandalas are components of a bigger project I am working on - I needed them to be "stretchy" and therefore used a larger hook;    A 4.00mm to 4.50mm depending on your tension will probably be a better option for this type of yarn

Foundation:  4ch, ss to form ring

Row 1:  4 ch (counts as 1dc 1ch), 1dc 1ch into ring (repeat 11 times) (12 x 1dc, 1ch groups) ss to close, break off yarn 

Row 2:  Into any 1ch sp,  2ch 2dc cluster, 3ch;   *3dc cluster, 3ch* crochet *to* 11x (12 clusters), ss to close, break off yarn 

Note:   a 3dc cluster is formed as follows - yarn over hook, work the first part of the stitch leaving 2 loops on your hook, repeat this twice more (four loops on hook) Yarn over hook and draw through the loops on the hook to form your cluster

Row 3  Into any 3ch sp, 3ch 2dc 1ch;   *3dc, 1ch into next 3ch sp* repeat *to* to end, ss to close, break off yarn

Row 4:  Into any 1ch sp, 3ch, 1dc, 1ch, 2dc, 1ch:  *2dc, 1ch, 2dc, 1ch into next 1ch sp* repeat *to* to end, ss to close, break off yarn

Row 5:   Into any 1ch sp, 3ch 2dc;   *3dc into next 1ch sp* repeat *to* to end, ss to close, break off yarn

Row 6:  Into any sp between 3dc groups,  6ch *1dc, 3ch into next sp between 3dc groups* repeat * to * to end, ss to close, break off yarn

Row 7:  Into any 3ch sp, 3ch 4dc; *5dc into next 3ch sp* repeat *to* to end, ss to close, break off yarn

Row 8:  Into any dc, 3ch;   1dc into each dc to end, ss to close, break off yarn

Row 9:   Into any dc directly in line with dc on row 6:  7ch, 1sc into top of 5th dc from hook;  *6ch, 1sc into top of 5th dc from hook* repeat *to* to end, ss into 1st of 7ch

Row 10:  ss along first three chain of Row 9; sc into 6ch sp; *7ch, sc into 6ch space* repeat *to* to last 6ch sp;  6ch ss into first sc to close, break off yarn

Row 11:  Into any 7ch sp; 3ch, 6dc;  *7dc into each 7ch sp* repeat *to* to end, ss to join.  break off yarn

Rainbow Half Grannies Square Pattern: Baby Groovyghan CAL(2)

In Part 1 of the Baby Groovyghan CAL we made 8 RAINBOWS AND DAISIES SQUARES

The squares were assembled into a strip using the VISIBLE JOIN

Your blanket should be looking something like this:

The second square we will be making is the Rainbow Half Granny Square.  

RAINBOW HALF GRANNY SQUARE:

Foundation:  ch4

Round 1:  into fourth ch from hook 2dc, 2ch, 3dc

Round 2:  3ch turn;   2dc into sp between first two dc;   3dc, 3ch, 3dc into 2ch sp,  3dc into sp between last 2dc

Round 3 and 4:   3ch turn, 2dc into sp between first two dc,  3dc into sp between clusters; 3dc, 3ch, 3dc into 3ch sp (corner);  3dc into sp between clusters;  3dc into sp between last 2dc.

Break off yarn at the end of Round 4.

NOTE:   Row 4 is the "right side" of the granny - you need to remember this when we start joining.

Make 16 half grannies and then proceed as follows:

Put two triangles on top of one another, right sides facing inward, and join along the bottom edge with the VISIBLE JOIN

 Join your half grannies 2 by 2 until you have eight of these little parcels

Fold them open and smooth them flat - do not panic! - at this point they are more "diamond" shaped than square - we will compensate for this in Round 5!

 
Round 5:  Join your white yarn (or whatever colour you are using as your border colour) in any sp between 3dc clusters;  3ch, 2dc;  3dc into sp between every 3dc cluster;   3dc, 3ch, 3dc into corner

Over join work as follows:   into sp between last 2dc crochet 1dc;   2tr through loop of visible join, 3ch, 2tr through loop of visible join;  1dc into sp between first 2dc on second triangle

repeat to complete the square;   ss into top of 3ch to join

Round 6:  2ch, 1hdc into top of each dc;    2hdc, 3ch, 2hdc into each corner (there should be 20hdc on each side of your square)

Arrange your 8 squares in a row (use the 1st row as a visual placement guide) and work them together with the visible join

You should now have two rows of 8 squares each which look something like this:

I am going to neaten up my two rows by working in the ends (lots and lots of ends).    I will post the next part of the CAL by latest Wednesday next week - we will be adding 10 rows of stripes to the Rainbows & Daisies row - then joining to the Rainbow Half Grannies row, and then adding ten stripes to that - quite a lot of work for next week so get those hooks ready!